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First Bite: Tasting what's new in town


UNION-TRIBUNE

November 19, 2008

My thick, juicy pork chop of uncertain provenance – the menu identified it as Duroc; the bill, Kurobuta – had a listed price of $30. Costly, but a delicious dining improvement over my companion's choice, a bland $12 Wagyu burger.

Too bad the chop was served with a heaping plate of rudeness.

The Glass Door sits on the fourth floor of Porto Vista, a Little Italy hotel that opened this summer. From the narrow balcony or the small dining room, you can enjoy views of the harbor, Point Loma and downtown.

We, though, chose to watch the flat-screen TV mounted on the far wall. The night we visited it was showing, with the sound off, Game 5 of the Rays-Red Sox series.

In the fifth inning, the TV went dark. I inquired with the bartender.

“People complained about it,” interjected the manager, who had overheard my question. “Besides, this is a restaurant. We shouldn't have a TV here.”

Why does the Glass Door have one, then? Swallowing that question, I appealed to her sense of fairness: “But we sat here to watch”

She walked off.

Only to return during dessert. The vanilla ice cream in a Florentine cone ($7) was nutty, caramelly and satisfying. The triple chocolate mousse ($8), a grainy, thin disappointment.

“All the people who complained have left,” she announced. “Would you like the TV back on?”

We watched, we finished, we waited for the bill – all evening our service alternated between friendly-but-inattentive and prompt-yet-hostile. Leaving, we passed the manager. She ignored us and called to the bartender: “Turn off the TV.”

She put us in our place, a place that won't include a return to the Glass Door.

The Glass Door, 1835 Columbia St.; (619) 564-3755.

– PETER ROWE


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